Bull BFG auger motor in the RT-700. It's awesome!

The feed-rate has nothing to do with how hot the grill gets. It is what sets the minimum amount time the auger feed pellets into the fire pot which is setting how low a temperature the grill can maintain without getting a flameout.

The 3 rpm motor puts about 50% more pellets in the fire pot than the 2 rpm motor does So you can set the feed-rate lower and not get a flameout.

The 1250 can hit 700+ degrees when the auger is running 100% of the time with the 3 rpm motor because it is able to dump more pellets into the fire pot than the stock 2 rpm motor does that comes with the 700.
Recteq changed the firmware/controller on the RT-1250. One of the outcomes is that the new controller allows the RT-1250 to get up to 700ish degrees. The previous controller on the RT-700 limited the max temperature to the 600s. But you’re right in the fact that the max temperature isn’t controlled by the MFR.
 
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The 2.5 is in.

Its not exactly a direct drop in and I had to disassemble and reassemble a couple of times. Couple of notes for anyone who wants to do this swap.

The 2.5 comes with an allen head bolt and nyolock nut to secure it. You will not be able to use this. There isnt enough room between where the bolt hole is and where it meets the inside of the auger for you to be able to get the nut to sit where the threads can start so you'll need to re-use the cotter pin that's holding your original auger motor in.

You'll need to trim the fan. They make note of that in the instructions but I tried it first as is and then had to take it apart a couple of times and refit it. Something else to note is there is a bolt head that the fan can come in contact with if it's pushed too far on the shaft so be mindful of that when you're swapping. Mine will still rub for a split second every couple of minutes. I figure eventually it will clearance itself or Ill take the cover off and cut the blades down some more. I was hoping I could get the fan off the original auger motor and move it over but it didnt seem to want to come off too easily and I wanted a backout in case I couldnt get the 2.5 to work.

I havent done any low temperature testing but the grill will go from cold to 500 degrees in about 15 minutes now.

Any other questions, Ill be happy to answer them. Ill add some photos when they finish uploading.
 

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The 2.5 is in.

Its not exactly a direct drop in and I had to disassemble and reassemble a couple of times. Couple of notes for anyone who wants to do this swap.

The 2.5 comes with an allen head bolt and nyolock nut to secure it. You will not be able to use this. There isnt enough room between where the bolt hole is and where it meets the inside of the auger for you to be able to get the nut to sit where the threads can start so you'll need to re-use the cotter pin that's holding your original auger motor in.

You'll need to trim the fan. They make note of that in the instructions but I tried it first as is and then had to take it apart a couple of times and refit it. Something else to note is there is a bolt head that the fan can come in contact with if it's pushed too far on the shaft so be mindful of that when you're swapping. Mine will still rub for a split second every couple of minutes. I figure eventually it will clearance itself or Ill take the cover off and cut the blades down some more.

I havent done any low temperature testing but the grill will go from cold to 500 degrees in about 15 minutes now.

Any other questions, Ill be happy to answer them. Ill add some photos when they finish uploading.
Awesome.. thanks for your input on this. If I do ever decide I want more from the 700 this is likely the route I will go.
 
The 2.5 is in.

Its not exactly a direct drop in and I had to disassemble and reassemble a couple of times. Couple of notes for anyone who wants to do this swap.

The 2.5 comes with an allen head bolt and nyolock nut to secure it. You will not be able to use this. There isnt enough room between where the bolt hole is and where it meets the inside of the auger for you to be able to get the nut to sit where the threads can start so you'll need to re-use the cotter pin that's holding your original auger motor in.

You'll need to trim the fan. They make note of that in the instructions but I tried it first as is and then had to take it apart a couple of times and refit it. Something else to note is there is a bolt head that the fan can come in contact with if it's pushed too far on the shaft so be mindful of that when you're swapping. Mine will still rub for a split second every couple of minutes. I figure eventually it will clearance itself or Ill take the cover off and cut the blades down some more. I was hoping I could get the fan off the original auger motor and move it over but it didnt seem to want to come off too easily and I wanted a backout in case I couldnt get the 2.5 to work.

I havent done any low temperature testing but the grill will go from cold to 500 degrees in about 15 minutes now.

Any other questions, Ill be happy to answer them. Ill add some photos when they finish uploading.
Take the fan blade off the old motor and use that instead of trimming.
 
Recteq changed the firmware/controller on the RT-1250. One of the outcomes is that the new controller allows the RT-1250 to get up to 700ish degrees. The previous controller on the RT-700 limited the max temperature to the 600s. But you’re right in the fact that the max temperature isn’t controlled by the MFR.
What controls how hot the grill will get is the amount of pellets you get into the burn pot. The faster 3 RPM auger motor on the 1250 will dump more pellets in the firepot when the auger is running 100%, that is what allows the 1250 to get to 700+ degrees. My guess is if you put that same auger motor in the 700 you will get the same 700+ degree temperature with the stock 700 controller set at FUL (which runs the auger 100% of the time), at least that is my understanding.
 
What controls how hot the grill will get is the amount of pellets you get into the burn pot. The faster 3 RPM auger motor on the 1250 will dump more pellets in the firepot when the auger is running 100%, that is what allows the 1250 to get to 700+ degrees. My guess is if you put that same auger motor in the 700 you will get the same 700+ degree temperature with the stock 700 controller set at FUL (which runs the auger 100% of the time), at least that is my understanding.
the 1250 uses the 3rpm auger also. the full setting on a 700 is really 600. once the grill hits 600 it will regulate its self to not go above that. the new 1250 will is limited to 700 on full. now if you put the 1250 controller on a 700 with the 3rpm you could also hit 700. here is a picture of my 3rpm 700 running on full, it got there fairly quickly and could have definitely went hotter. but thats the limit recteq put into the 700s controller
 

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the 1250 uses the 3rpm auger also. the full setting on a 700 is really 600. once the grill hits 600 it will regulate its self to not go above that. the new 1250 will is limited to 700 on full. now if you put the 1250 controller on a 700 with the 3rpm you could also hit 700. here is a picture of my 3rpm 700 running on full, it got there fairly quickly and could have definitely went hotter. but thats the limit recteq put into the 700s controller
thanks for technical background on the pid controller operation differences.
 
I just got the 3 RPM auger motor in from smoke daddy. Any tips or tricks for the install? I watched the YouTube video from recteq on how to change it out and it seemed relatively straightforward.

Has anyone installed and had success with the smoke daddy auger motor?
 
I just got the 3 RPM auger motor in from smoke daddy. Any tips or tricks for the install? I watched the YouTube video from recteq on how to change it out and it seemed relatively straightforward.

Has anyone installed and had success with the smoke daddy auger motor?
The RT video shows a nut and bolt holding the shaft in place. On mine it was a cotter pin. Make sure when you push it out, it doesnt go flying.
 
Madflava, thanks for the tip. Do you have the smoke daddy 3 rpm auger motor installed? Curious if it will work as well as the recteq one.
 
Madflava, thanks for the tip. Do you have the smoke daddy 3 rpm auger motor installed? Curious if it will work as well as the recteq one.

I have this one.

https://www.savannahstoker.com/products/traeger-2-5-rpm-replacement-auger-motor

I havent tried low smoking yet but it gets up to 500 degrees in under 15 minutes from dead cold.

I may do some pork belly this weekend and that will give me a chance to see how it works at low temperatures.

I know that one is higher priced but it is made in the US. I sourced it a couple of pages back.
 
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LOL.. Im not. My track record with pork belly isnt very good but its about the only thing thats affordable right now.

LOL.. I only did it once so far.. well twice but it was 1 belly cut in 1/2.. Did one in strips and one cubed. The strips were my 1st and I left all the fat on. Did not render down enough so kind of had to remove it before eating. When I did the cubes I took a little more of the fat off so they were a bit better.

Good luck & enjoy!
 
LOL.. I only did it once so far.. well twice but it was 1 belly cut in 1/2.. Did one in strips and one cubed. The strips were my 1st and I left all the fat on. Did not render down enough so kind of had to remove it before eating. When I did the cubes I took a little more of the fat off so they were a bit better.

Good luck & enjoy!

Thats been my findings as well and when I didnt remove the fat on the second one, when I covered the PB in a pan, all the fat kind of expanded and made it gross.
 
I installed the recteq 3 rpm in my bull about a week ago and have run about 25# of pellets through it at varying temps since in an attempt to recalibrate the PID. Aside from the noted things above (lowering set temp when having it open for a longer time to avoid overshoot, taking time for the PID to adjust), ive found I have a very slight increase in temp fluctuation compared to my original 2 RPM (+- 5-7*). I know this is a VERY minor fluctuation, but was just curious if those who have had the 3 RPM in their bull for an extended time if theyve found this to be a consistent happening or if the PID eventually re-learns the accuracy it had with the original motor? Like I said, I know that higher fluctuation is minor, I was just curious if others found their bull regained its dead on accuracy after further cooks?
 
I installed the recteq 3 rpm in my bull about a week ago and have run about 25# of pellets through it at varying temps since in an attempt to recalibrate the PID. Aside from the noted things above (lowering set temp when having it open for a longer time to avoid overshoot, taking time for the PID to adjust), ive found I have a very slight increase in temp fluctuation compared to my original 2 RPM (+- 5-7*). I know this is a VERY minor fluctuation, but was just curious if those who have had the 3 RPM in their bull for an extended time if theyve found this to be a consistent happening or if the PID eventually re-learns the accuracy it had with the original motor? Like I said, I know that higher fluctuation is minor, I was just curious if others found their bull regained its dead on accuracy after further cooks?
Mine got a lot better by third low temp cook. I think it learns . Sometimes it's a little high, but it seems better when the ash pot is cleaned.

Also there is a recipe for pork belly burnt ends which is fantastic. I think it's on meat church.
 

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