Bull Rubber Gasket for Bull Horns?

umami mami

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  1. Bull
I assembled my RT700 this weekend and saw the bull horns had some sort of rubber gasket attached to the base of the horns when unpacking (see attached image). Are we supposed to include these during installation? I did not, as I thought they would melt against the drum. The user manual and assembly instructions say nothing about them.

gasket.jpg
 
I too used them in the assembly of my Bull
Have done many 500+ Cooks and no issue with heat on the Gaskets
 
Thanks everyone! Got a response from RecTeq and they said the gaskets aren't really necessary and I would run the risk of stripping the threads on the horns if I disassembled them and installed the gasket. Good to know.
 
Thanks everyone! Got a response from RecTeq and they said the gaskets aren't really necessary and I would run the risk of stripping the threads on the horns if I disassembled them and installed the gasket. Good to know.
Stripping horn threads sounds painful 😁
 
Had one of mine melt but it was because of a grease fire in the drip pan. Planned to replace it but if it will strip the threads then to heck with it.
 
Thanks everyone! Got a response from RecTeq and they said the gaskets aren't really necessary and I would run the risk of stripping the threads on the horns if I disassembled them and installed the gasket. Good to know.
I’m not arguing your point but I’ve taken my horns/handles off twice, with the gasket, and haven’t had an issue.

They are machine threaded bolts/screws and I always start with a counterclockwise turn till I hear a click then start turning clockwise a few turns with my fingers to make sure it’s not stripping the threads. At that point I’ll use a manual screwdriver to finish tightening it. I would never use a power-driven screwdriver for this.
 
I’m not arguing your point but I’ve taken my horns/handles off twice, with the gasket, and haven’t had an issue.

They are machine threaded bolts/screws and I always start with a counterclockwise turn till I hear a click then start turning clockwise a few turns with my fingers to make sure it’s not stripping the threads. At that point I’ll use a manual screwdriver to finish tightening it. I would never use a power-driven screwdriver for this.
IIRC, both the horns and screws are stainless. Provided that is true, stainless on stainless is very prone to galling. If the union galls, it will be difficult, if not impossible to get the two pieces apart without destroying one or both pieces. I'm pretty confident that's why RecTeq recommended against it.

Because of that, I'd recommend using some anti-seize compound on the screw threads when re-assembling. And, agreed about not using a power screwdriver.
 
IIRC, both the horns and screws are stainless. Provided that is true, stainless on stainless is very prone to galling.
Agree to all you mentioned, and what @TheRicker said about pre-indexing the starter thread. Great advice, especially with SS components.
 
And, with threaded SS components, adding a bit of high-heat anti-seize will pay big dividends if you ever have to remove them. Don’t ask how I know. :rolleyes:
Absolutely! @Threadcutter mentioned that as well. I could be mistaken, but I figure with his username, he might have some experience also!
 
IIRC, both the horns and screws are stainless. Provided that is true, stainless on stainless is very prone to galling. If the union galls, it will be difficult, if not impossible to get the two pieces apart without destroying one or both pieces. I'm pretty confident that's why RecTeq recommended against it.

Because of that, I'd recommend using some anti-seize compound on the screw threads when re-assembling. And, agreed about not using a power screwdriver.
I do have some Loc-Tite I use. I should’ve mentioned that.
 

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