Stampede Power issue

[Duckrig]

While I was building outdoor kitchen I had my 590 unplugged for about 3 weeks. Completed kitchen now it won't power up. Any ideas?

 

[Greg Jones]

Perhaps check the fuse, and the outlet/GFCI.

 

[Duckrig]

That about the fuse. Where is it located?

 

[RattleR]

This help? https://support.recteq.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408997543707-RT-590-Wood-Pellet-Grill-Manual

 

[Threadcutter]

While I was building outdoor kitchen I had my 590 unplugged for about 3 weeks. Completed kitchen now it won't power up. Any ideas?

Temporarily run an extension cord to the 590 from a different, known working outlet. If the 590 turns on, the new circuit Has a problem. If it doesn't turn on, the 590 has a problem.

Also.......I spent part of yesterday "fixing" a problem with our two year old Samsung refrigerator In our kitchen. It was tripping the existing GFCI receptacle. The GFCI receptacles wear out over time, so I went and bought a new one and swapped it out.

The tripping problem was significantly worse with the new one. I finally just replaced the new GFCI with a non-GFCI receptacle. Problem solved. The refrigerator isn't close enough to a sink/water for it to be a problem.

For the record, I do not believe the refrigerator has any kind of a problem.

If the new circuit has a GFCI circuit breaker or receptacle, it's probably tripped and needs to be reset. It also may be that the 590 will never play nice with a GFCI. YMMV............

 

[SmokeOCD]

If another outlet isn't convenient, plug something else into the recteq outlet to prove it's not the outlet.

Edit: when my 1070 is wet - it will just trip the GFCI instantly. If you don't have a GFCI nearby maybe you don't hear the click.

 

[RattleR]

Temporarily run an extension cord to the 590 from a different, known working outlet. If the 590 turns on, the new circuit Has a problem. If it doesn't turn on, the 590 has a problem.

Also.......I spent part of yesterday "fixing" a problem with our two year old Samsung refrigerator In our kitchen. It was tripping the existing GFCI receptacle. The GFCI receptacles wear out over time, so I went and bought a new one and swapped it out.

The tripping problem was significantly worse with the new one. I finally just replaced the new GFCI with a non-GFCI receptacle. Problem solved. The refrigerator isn't close enough to a sink/water for it to be a problem.

If the new circuit has a GFCI circuit breaker or receptacle, it's probably tripped and needs to be reset. It also may be that the 590 will never play nice with a GFCI.......

Interesting. I have the RT-700 and it works fine on my GFCI. Maybe something else in the mix like flipped polarity?

 

[Duckrig]

Outlet fine. Believe it's gonna be fuse. Working on thst now. Thanks for the help

 

[Greg Jones]

The refrigerator isn't close enough to a sink/water for it to be a problem

Can you still buy a refrigerator, even two years ago, that doesn’t have a water line?

 

[Greg Jones]

That about the fuse. Where is it located?

And you should have a replacement in the same bag that the probes came in.

 

[Threadcutter]

Interesting. I have the RT-700 and it works fine on my GFCI. Maybe something else in the mix like flipped polarity?

I think GFCI's have become so sensitive that they are marginally compatible with the electronics in modern appliances.

We have two Samsung refrigerators, the other is in the garage. They both have inverters (variable frequency drives). in them. VFD's provide the benefit of variable speed (obviously) and "soft starting" capability. Soft starting reduces the "startup" or "inrush" current to the motor, dramatically. Plus, soft starting helps extend (electromechanical) motor life.

The problem with VFD's/active electronics motor control is that they take power from the utility service (your outlet) in a very "non-sinusoidal" fashion. In other words, they hack up the 60 Hz Sine wave something fierce and put a lot of harmonic distortion back on the power line. I think it is one, the other, or both of those that are playing hell with GFCI's.

 

[Threadcutter]

Can you still buy a refrigerator, even two years ago, that doesn’t have a water line?

Oh, yeah, good point. I had forgotten about that.

 

[Greg Jones]

This is usually not a concern in outdoor outlets, but inside the house not all the outlets requiring GFCI protection (e.g: the kitchen) require a GFCI outlet. Code only requires only the first outlet in the stream to be GFCI. The downstream outlets are still protected by the first GFCI outlet. In an outdoor kitchen, you too may have downstream outlets (your grill is plugged into) that is protected by the GFCI outlet upstream.

 

[Threadcutter]

This is usually not a concern in outdoor outlets, but inside the house not all the outlets requiring GFCI protection (e.g: the kitchen) require a GFCI outlet. Code only requires only the first outlet in the stream to be GFCI. The downstream outlets are still protected by the first GFCI outlet. In an outdoor kitchen, you too may have downstream outlets (your grill is plugged into) that is protected by the GFCI outlet upstream.

Yes, all true.

 

[Threadcutter]

Buy one of these. Beats dragging a lamp or a hair dryer around........

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=120+vac+tester

 

[Jim6820]

To add a little spice to the mix, there are also “dual-function” AFCI/GFCI outlets and breakers. If you happen to have one of these things, you might want to replace it.

GFCI is “Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter” and is designed to prevent electrical shock by sensing a circuit imbalance. AFCI is Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter and is designed to prevent fires by sensing a spark/arc. Frequently, they are combined into a single unit. Newer building codes have required both for some time.

AFCIs are very sensitive and I’ve had two dual-function GFCI/AFCI breakers go bad in my 10-year-old house.They would trip for no identifiable reason. Replacing them with new ones of the same make solved the problem. YMMV

 

[SmokeZilla]

A good old fashioned Widow Stick is the easiest way to detect voltages/current in a circuit. They only cost around $20 and are touch sensitive. As an alternative, a VoM (Volt-Ohm Meter) can not only detect the voltatges but also help with polarity and tell if there are voltage drop-outs or brown outs at a particular outlet. If used, please, please, please, know what you are doing because you don‘t want to become a part of the active circuit.

 

[SmokeOCD]

 

[DesertRat]

Buy one of these. Beats dragging a lamp or a hair dryer around........

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=120+vac+tester

Got one. You are right on with that suggestion.

 

[Threadcutter]

Got one. You are right on with that suggestion.

I think it's already been said above, but look for a tripped GFI (GFCI) outlet.

You may already know this and if so, I apologize. One GFCI, first in the branch/string will protect all non-GFCI outlets downstream from it. So......the first or second outlet you come to may not actually be a GFCI.