RT-1250 Spare Parts on Hand?

[SmokinBourbon]

Thinking about calling Recteq and ordering a few spare parts. Yeah, I'm still under warranty but a warranty doesn't help too much when You've got $100+ worth of meat on the grill.

Is this silly? I've got 400 hours of interrupted issue free cooking on my 1250 that's I've had at just a year but I hate the idea of something failing mid cook and not being able to fulfill a commitment.

If this isn't silly, which parts should I buy that fall more than others? Auger motor? Fan motor? RTD Probe? Not looking to rebuild the entire grill at the drop of a hat, just to have to most cooking failure point parts.

 

[SmokeZilla]

Thinking about calling Recteq and ordering a few spare parts. Yeah, I'm still under warranty but a warranty doesn't help too much when You've got $100+ worth of meat on the grill.

Is this silly? I've got 400 hours of interrupted issue free cooking on my 1250 that's I've had at just a year but I hate the idea of something failing mid cook and not being able to fulfill a commitment.

If this isn't silly, which parts should I buy that fall more than others? Auger motor? Fan motor? RTD Probe? Not looking to rebuild the entire grill at the drop of a hat, just to have to most cooking failure point parts.

I typically keep “spares” for key and critical items. Fortunately, there are not as many wear items in the RTs compared to a typical gasser, I would offer the following:
- Controller
- Igniter
- Probe
- Heat deflector (although the cast iron seems more robust than the steel one that’s in my Bull that keeps warping)

Just my thoughts.

 

[SmokinBourbon]

I typically keep “spares” for key and critical items. Fortunately, there are not as many wear items in the RTs compared to a typical gasser, I would offer the following:
- Controller
- Igniter
- Probe
- Heat deflector (although the cast iron seems more robust than the steel one that’s in my Bull that keeps warping)

Just my thoughts.

Thanks for the input. I have a cast iron deflector and have never noticed any warping. I never find myself above 400 anyway so I'm thinking my chances of needing a replacement there are minimal.

Interesting that you don't keep any mechanical parts. Any reason for that? And how much did your spare controller cost?

 

[RHEINLEIN]

For that kind of money you can always pick up a second grill for backup.

https://www.ruralking.com/camp-chef-xt-24-pellet-grill-pg24xt?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source

 

[SmokinBourbon]

For that kind of money you can always pick up a second grill for backup.

https://www.ruralking.com/camp-chef-xt-24-pellet-grill-pg24xt?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source

A buck 50 ain't bad!!!

 

[RHEINLEIN]

A buck 50 ain't bad!!!

Only need to locate a location that’s has one in stock.

 

[Greg Jones]

The one part on a recteq that seems to be most prone to failure is the igniter, and you can light your grill with a MAPP torch. I keep no spare parts for my recteqs.

 

[DenStinett]

Only need to locate a location that’s has one in stock

Seems that they are available most everywhere
But they sure as hell ain't no buck fifty, or ever their regular price of three fifty

https://www.google.com/search?as_q=...&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&as_filetype=&tbs=

 

[Pete 396]

I typically keep “spares” for key and critical items. Fortunately, there are not as many wear items in the RTs compared to a typical gasser, I would offer the following:
- Controller
- Igniter
- Probe
- Heat deflector (although the cast iron seems more robust than the steel one that’s in my Bull that keeps warping)

Just my thoughts.

What problems will a warped heat deflector cause? Mine is warped but I can rotate it and get it to set firm. It works just fine.

 

[SmokeZilla]

What problems will a warped heat deflector cause? Mine is warped but I can rotate it and get it to set firm. It works just fine.

When I had problems with my Bull, they balked on the replacement. RT wanted me to measure the warpage to see if it was bad enough to contact or raise the bottom of the drip pan by more than a 1/2”. When I challenged the logic and potential impact to airflow, they conceded and sent me a new one. I also sent them pictures of the defective shield as I have had to replace mine 2 times so far and I anticipate ordering another one this summer as each replacement has exhibited the same “bent” results after about 150 hours of cooking. We’ll see if the “new” company is as good as the old company.

 

[TheRicker]

Thanks for the input. I have a cast iron deflector and have never noticed any warping. I never find myself above 400 anyway so I'm thinking my chances of needing a replacement there are minimal.

Interesting that you don't keep any mechanical parts. Any reason for that? And how much did your spare controller cost?

Looking back at your original post on this topic, are you really sure you’d be replacing mechanical parts in the middle of a cook? A probe/RTD? Possibly. Igniter has a sufficient workaround as Greg noted. A controller board? Not sure. For me…definitely nothing else.

I’ve had issues on my RT-700 with the two ball-bearing swivel wheels. They’re pretty quick and easy to replace.

Don’t get me wrong. I have similar concerns and thoughts as I inch closer to the end of my warranty period. I am leaning towards buying those key components (swivel wheels, fan, auger motor, igniter, RTD, and controller board) as I near the end more because I’m worried the replacement parts won’t be available 4 years down the road. As I’m sitting here writing this, I realize all those components may cost as much as a new RecTeq. I guess I’ll just have to buy a new grill.

 

[Greg Jones]

Most, if not all, of the internal parts of a recteq are compatible with earlier models. I believe that @C. Keeper put a new controller in a 680 a couple of years ago.

 

[C. Keeper]

Most, if not all, of the internal parts of a recteq are compatible with earlier models. I believe that @C. Keeper put a new controller in a 680 a couple of years ago.

I did! Kept the old one as a spare.