Bullseye RT-B380 Ignitor Replacement Questions

[charlesrshell]

I have a few questions on replacing my RT-B380 ignitor if someone can help. Thanks for any replies.


In pic #1, does it appear to be correct ignitor?

In pic #2, what is that cap on the end of the ignitor? Should it be removed? The instructions RT sent me doesn’t say.

What is the latest theory for the ignitor adjustment? Should it be flush with the end of the ignitor housing or stick out a little?

Any tips or shortcuts for me replacing the ignitor?

Are there any more videos for replacing the ignitor?

 

[Greg Jones]

Looks right to me, and no, that is not a cap to be removed. Here is another video for a 340 that may help.

Here is a very important point-the igniter is secured in place by two metric set screws, NOT the metric nuts. The nuts are welded to the igniter shroud and the set screws thread into them. If you put a wrench on those nuts and twist, the weld will break and you will need a repair shop or a new fire pot. Hope this helps.

 

[charlesrshell]

Looks right to me, and no, that is not a cap to be removed. Here is another video for a 340 that may help.

Here is a very important point-the igniter is secured in place by two metric set screws, NOT the metric nuts. The nuts are welded to the igniter shroud and the set screws thread into them. If you put a wrench on those nuts and twist, the weld will break and you will need a repair shop or a new fire pot. Hope this helps.

Thanks Greg. I don't think the cap is on my present ignitor. I have had two ignitor failures, had to use a blow torch. RT had me perform the ignitor test and it barley passes the 90 second test so they sent me a new one under warranty. I think I am going to order a new firepot gasket (if available) before I change the ignitor.

 

[Greg Jones]

The gasket will be destroyed in this process, and recteq will probably tell you it’s not even needed. I’d replace it just the same. IIRC you had a grease leak in your 380, so tell them that if they balk at replacing the gasket.

 

[C. Keeper]

The gasket will be destroyed in this process, and recteq will probably tell you it’s not even needed. I’d replace it just the same. IIRC you had a grease leak in your 380, so tell them that if they balk at replacing the gasket.

High temp silicone would be my suggestion. Better to do it now, than wish you did.

 

[charlesrshell]

OK, thanks again. Yep, I had a severe grease leak after a couple of cooks when she was brand new. I had to pull up the firepot to clean out all the grease inside the airbox. Recteq told me to just use the Red RTV gasket maker instead of them me sending a new gasket, in which I did. I am still to this day pissed off about the grease leak I had. No where in the instruction manual does it say to use a drip pan for long cooks. I don't know if they ever did add the grease pan info in the instruction manual.

 

[kstone113]

I've had to replace mine I believe twice now. One under warranty and one I paid for. I try to make it flush or sticking out just a bit.

I'm not sure what you mean by cap unless you mean the piece at the end of it, that is normal.

RecTeq's instructions are pretty good. One tip is make sure when tapping together the old and new wires, make sure you tape good enough to where it doesn't pull apart pulling through. The first time I did, it came off and to say it was a pain in the ass to do my hand is an understatment but I got it done.

Another tip I've learned the hard way is unplug your grill after the shutdown and things are cooled off. Everytime(whether my Bull or Bullseye) I've blown an igniter, it has been due to power outage at my house. So I just unplug my Bullseye now.

 

[charlesrshell]

I've had to replace mine I believe twice now. One under warranty and one I paid for. I try to make it flush or sticking out just a bit.

I'm not sure what you mean by cap unless you mean the piece at the end of it, that is normal.

RecTeq's instructions are pretty good. One tip is make sure when tapping together the old and new wires, make sure you tape good enough to where it doesn't pull apart pulling through. The first time I did, it came off and to say it was a pain in the ass to do my hand is an understatment but I got it done.

Another tip I've learned the hard way is unplug your grill after the shutdown and things are cooled off. Everytime(whether my Bull or Bullseye) I've blown an igniter, it has been due to power outage at my house. So I just unplug my Bullseye now.

Thanks for info