Stampede 590 Wheel replacement

[mikeporter616]

I had my deck replaced and have discovered that it is sloped the wrong way for where my 590 now sets. I've made chocks that will work, but I'd like to replace the 4" wheels with 6" wheels. Has anyone done this? Thanks.

 

[Snorebaby]

I haven't done it but it shouldn't be a problem. There are modifications done to some other models
RT700, RT340, Another RT700

 

[pungo]

I had my deck replaced and have discovered that it is sloped the wrong way for where my 590 now sets. I've made chocks that will work, but I'd like to replace the 4" wheels with 6" wheels. Has anyone done this? Thanks.

Curious, how much your deck sloped? Is this a traditional type deck, if so 1/4"-1/2" per 12' span is common. Harbor freight as a good selection for wheel as does Amazon.

 

[Pacman]

I've seen all of these wheel mod posts as long as I've been here. I do see the merit based upon people's environments. It doesn't really affect me as my 1250 doesn't move and is on a concrete slab.

My Blackstone, however, is a totally different issue as the back to front slope of the slab effectively negated the rear grease trap. Maybe I'm simple minded or lazy (probably both), but I just used good old fashioned (plastic) shims to jack up the front using a level.

 

[mikeporter616]

I really need to check the whole deck, but I put 3/4" blocks under the wheels and the unit is level. I've got 7" wheels from Hobo Freight and 5/16 x 1/2 x 1.5" bushings from the jungle company. I need to get 5/16 x 3.5" bolts from Ace and I will put them on Sunday. I'll post some pictures. Thanks.

 

[Jim6820]

I really need to check the whole deck, but I put 3/4" blocks under the wheels and the unit is level. I've got 7" wheels from Hobo Freight and 5/16 x 1/2 x 1.5" bushings from the jungle company. I need to get 5/16 x 3.5" bolts from Ace and I will put them on Sunday. I'll post some pictures. Thanks.

Do yourself a favor, @mikeporter616; get stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts. It will cost a couple bucks more, but you will avoid the rust issue down the line. And, be sure to put a little silicone grease on the SS threads before tightening things up. That will avoid “galling“ of the threads, which can happen with SS.

Will be interested in seeing photos of the finished project.

 

[mikeporter616]

Thanks for the advise. I plan to reuse the nuts and washers that are currently there and will certainly use stainless bolts. I'm a big fan of no rust.

 

[Jim6820]

Thanks for the advise. I plan to reuse the nuts and washers that are currently there and will certainly use stainless bolts. I'm a big fan of no rust.

If the existing nuts and washers aren’t stainless, I strongly encourage you to replace them with stainless. Mixing metals is not always the best idea. And, you may also find that the old nuts are a Metric thread. YMMV. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[mikeporter616]

If the existing nuts and washers aren’t stainless, I strongly encourage you to replace them with stainless. Mixing metals is not always the best idea. And, you may also find that the old nuts are a Metric thread. YMMV. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Thanks. I'm pretty sure that they are stainless, but I'll have to check, they may be M8 and not 5/16.

 

[pungo]

I really need to check the whole deck, but I put 3/4" blocks under the wheels and the unit is level. I've got 7" wheels from Hobo Freight and 5/16 x 1/2 x 1.5" bushings from the jungle company. I need to get 5/16 x 3.5" bolts from Ace and I will put them on Sunday. I'll post some pictures. Thanks.

If your deck slopes 3/4" over a ~30" span, that's pretty bad. That would even be noticeable walking on it. I wouldn't even slope it that much over a 16' span yet alone 30". I hope at least it's sloped away from the house.

I use anti-seize on all fasteners to reduce the chance of well, seizing....

 

[mikeporter616]

If your deck slopes 3/4" over a ~30" span, that's pretty bad. That would even be noticeable walking on it. I wouldn't even slope it that much over a 16' span yet alone 30". I hope at least it's sloped away from the house.

I use anti-seize on all fasteners to reduce the chance of well, seizing....

Very interesting. I have to agree with your thoughts and the picture becomes more puzzling. The picture below is from my last butt cook. I had noticed that the drip pan wasn't draining well on several previous cooks after the new deck, but this time nothing went into the bucket. The drip pan looks to slope relative to the grate, so I concluded that the deck must slope....WRONG! Nearly dead level!

It's too cold out now to do much, but when it get warmer I'll look into it further. Thanks for the comments.

 

[mikeporter616]

 

[Waterboy]

View attachment 18592

It looks like the grease is pooling up on the foil at the correct end of your drip pan before it can get to the drip bucket. Maybe the foil isn’t tight on the end of the pan causing a dam effect. You could try a cook without foil and see if it drains properly.

 

[pungo]

Very interesting. I have to agree with your thoughts and the picture becomes more puzzling. The picture below is from my last butt cook. I had noticed that the drip pan wasn't draining well on several previous cooks after the new deck, but this time nothing went into the bucket. The drip pan looks to slope relative to the grate, so I concluded that the deck must slope....WRONG! Nearly dead level!

If the deck is level, then why do you need 3/4" blocks under the wheels to level the grill?

Looks like the foil on your drip try is causing the crease to pool up.
I stopped lining the drip tray with foil after the first few cooks. For me, it's more trouble than it's worth. I use an old 6" drywall knife and scrape the drip tray clean in less than a minute.