I had my deck replaced and have discovered that it is sloped the wrong way for where my 590 now sets. I've made chocks that will work, but I'd like to replace the 4" wheels with 6" wheels. Has anyone done this? Thanks.
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Curious, how much your deck sloped? Is this a traditional type deck, if so 1/4"-1/2" per 12' span is common. Harbor freight as a good selection for wheel as does Amazon.I had my deck replaced and have discovered that it is sloped the wrong way for where my 590 now sets. I've made chocks that will work, but I'd like to replace the 4" wheels with 6" wheels. Has anyone done this? Thanks.
Do yourself a favor, @mikeporter616; get stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts. It will cost a couple bucks more, but you will avoid the rust issue down the line. And, be sure to put a little silicone grease on the SS threads before tightening things up. That will avoid “galling“ of the threads, which can happen with SS.I really need to check the whole deck, but I put 3/4" blocks under the wheels and the unit is level. I've got 7" wheels from Hobo Freight and 5/16 x 1/2 x 1.5" bushings from the jungle company. I need to get 5/16 x 3.5" bolts from Ace and I will put them on Sunday. I'll post some pictures. Thanks.
If the existing nuts and washers aren’t stainless, I strongly encourage you to replace them with stainless. Mixing metals is not always the best idea. And, you may also find that the old nuts are a Metric thread. YMMV. Good luck with whatever you decide.Thanks for the advise. I plan to reuse the nuts and washers that are currently there and will certainly use stainless bolts. I'm a big fan of no rust.
Thanks. I'm pretty sure that they are stainless, but I'll have to check, they may be M8 and not 5/16.If the existing nuts and washers aren’t stainless, I strongly encourage you to replace them with stainless. Mixing metals is not always the best idea. And, you may also find that the old nuts are a Metric thread. YMMV. Good luck with whatever you decide.
If your deck slopes 3/4" over a ~30" span, that's pretty bad. That would even be noticeable walking on it. I wouldn't even slope it that much over a 16' span yet alone 30". I hope at least it's sloped away from the house.I really need to check the whole deck, but I put 3/4" blocks under the wheels and the unit is level. I've got 7" wheels from Hobo Freight and 5/16 x 1/2 x 1.5" bushings from the jungle company. I need to get 5/16 x 3.5" bolts from Ace and I will put them on Sunday. I'll post some pictures. Thanks.
Very interesting. I have to agree with your thoughts and the picture becomes more puzzling. The picture below is from my last butt cook. I had noticed that the drip pan wasn't draining well on several previous cooks after the new deck, but this time nothing went into the bucket. The drip pan looks to slope relative to the grate, so I concluded that the deck must slope....WRONG! Nearly dead level!If your deck slopes 3/4" over a ~30" span, that's pretty bad. That would even be noticeable walking on it. I wouldn't even slope it that much over a 16' span yet alone 30". I hope at least it's sloped away from the house.
I use anti-seize on all fasteners to reduce the chance of well, seizing....
It looks like the grease is pooling up on the foil at the correct end of your drip pan before it can get to the drip bucket. Maybe the foil isn’t tight on the end of the pan causing a dam effect. You could try a cook without foil and see if it drains properly.
If the deck is level, then why do you need 3/4" blocks under the wheels to level the grill?Very interesting. I have to agree with your thoughts and the picture becomes more puzzling. The picture below is from my last butt cook. I had noticed that the drip pan wasn't draining well on several previous cooks after the new deck, but this time nothing went into the bucket. The drip pan looks to slope relative to the grate, so I concluded that the deck must slope....WRONG! Nearly dead level!