Bull My PCS Rackworks Experience

TheRicker

Well-known member
Military Veteran
Messages
439
Location
Charleston, SC
Grill(s) owned
  1. Bull
I have been mulling over a decision on procuring the PCS Rackworks package #4B for over 6 months. I finally pulled the trigger.

Chad Peterson was great to work with. I think it’s Feb. 1st or 2nd when I made the online purchase. Chad called to finalize details. He got it shipped to me and I received it yesterday. I ordered the grease diverter for inside the lid too but I couldn’t find any high-temp silicone sealant. So, I’ll put that on later.

I cleaned my Bull pretty thoroughly. I started around 3:30pm EST and it was starting to get dark so I waited until this morning to do the installation.

I reviewed the installation video last night. Per the video, I used a ruler to measure 4 1/2” from the front edge of the side ledge. The ruler really needs to “stand” on its edge as you need the mark to be visible when you hold the rack up to mark the two holes to drill. On the left (inside), the internal chamber temp probe made holding the 12” ruler flat impossible. But I eyeballed it and compensated accordingly. Oddly, the left side (drilled) holes were much more accurate than the right side. I marked the holes as directed using the rack frame.

The hardest part I had was drilling the first of the 1/16” pilot holes. The tip of the titanium drill bit kept wanting to slide away from center. After several attempts, I grabbed a pointed chisel/hole punch and a hammer and was able to make a slight indentation that the pilot bit would stay in and allow me to drill the pilot holes. Note… my Milwaukee 18v drill is a great tool. However, to drill through the stainless steel, you need more horsepower. So I grabbed my electric drill. That did the trick. I had no trouble drilling the 5/16” holes with the pilot holes done. I smoothed the drilled holes with a 1/2” drill bit as Chad shows in the video. Heads up…it takes some time and muscle to drill the holes. It’s pretty thick, strong stainless steel you’re drilling through. It gives comfort that it’s that strong since the 3 racks and any meat you cook on them will be heavy. I could’ve never done this on my old Traeger BBQ075 (“Tex”?).

For whatever reason, my right side holes were not perfectly aligned with the rack frame. I was worried I screwed up. But there was just enough “slop” that the bolts went through and I was able to bolt it on. I’m guessing one of my right side pilot holes was off center. That’s where I started and had that initial problem starting the pilot holes. My left side holes were perfect. When it’s perfectly aligned, you can move the rack forward or backwards about 1/4” before tightening down. The right side rack had no slack. All three cooking racks slide in and out smoothly.

The paper in the shipping box said to wipe down the racks and frames with isopropyl alcohol. I only had a small container of that. So I used distilled vinegar instead. I’m crossing my fingers that’s okay. But I had a gallon jug of it. 🤷🏼‍♂️. After that, I wiped all the parts with cooking oil and did a burn-in/seasoning run at 400F for 45 minutes. After 46 minutes, I put bacon on the racks and cooked them until they were done…about 20 minutes. I then slowly brought my grill temp down to 200F and then performed a “shutdown”.

I’m ready to do ribs and wings tomorrow.

Notes…
…there are stainless steel dowels that come with the racks that would prevent the racks from sliding all the way out. Good safety feature. The holes for them are on the back, side and do not go all the way through so the dowels stay put and can be pulled out easily. It’s tough to reach them so they need to be put in when the grill is cool.
…cooking the bacon I discovered that the left side of my grill is hotter than the right side. I had been told before that was the case but I’ve seen several times in this forum where people say the smokestack side is hotter on their grill. The high side of my grease tray is on the left and it seemed to me that’s where it would typically be hotter. (I never did the bread test…I think I will next week. 😬

FYI…I had bought the Grilla Grills’ Jerky Rack so I could do the ribs and wings with tomorrow but the PCS racks came in in time. Alas, I didn’t use them. Apologies to @Greg Jones. If someone wants them, let me know. I’ll sell them at cost/list price and I’ll cover the shipping. If no one wants them, I may test drive it and give a review another time.

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Looks like a very nice setup! I think you’ll be pretty happy with that. So the original grates stay in but are not used? Or can you still add a 4th layer of Jersey there?
 
Looks like a very nice setup! I think you’ll be pretty happy with that. So the original grates stay in but are not used? Or can you still add a 4th layer of Jersey there?
My plan is to take the original grates out as a norm. They were in today because I had washed with grease cleaner spray, rinsed them and thought I’d just just run them through the seasoning on the new racks.

I think there’s 3/4” between the original grates and the bottom of thebig bottom shelf. So if I were cooking a single brisket, I’d cook it on the middle shelf and have a full-sized aluminum pan under it to capture fat/juices. And if there’s not enough height between the bottom shelf and the middle shelf, I’d pull the bottom shelf out and put the original grates in to buy me 3/4” more height for the pan.

paid close attention to Chad’s YouTube video describing this particular package. I measured the height of both the half- and full-sized aluminum pans I get from Costco and believe it would be a close fit for a full-sized pan between the bottom and middle shelf.

At this point, you’re probably wondering why not put the meat on the top shelf, take the middle shelf out and put the pan on the bottom shelf? My reason is there was a thread on this topic/racks from 2 years or so ago and the writer said the temp on the top shelf of his Bull was upwards of 10 degrees hotter than the bottom shelf. The middle shelf was somewhere in-between. I’m thinking I’ve got to adjust my cooking temp downward to account for those differences if I don’t want to cook too hot.

Clearly, I have work and note-taking to do to fully understand what works and doesn’t work with this setup. Where are my hot spots? What temps am I seeing at the different shelf levels? And how will those differences effect my cook times, cooking temps, or methods?

I’m looking forward to it. It almost feels like a whole new grill/smoker. I look forward to the new experiences and challenges.
 
Clearly, I have work and note-taking to do to fully understand what works and doesn’t work with this setup. Where are my hot spots? What temps am I seeing at the different shelf levels? And how will those differences effect my cook times, cooking temps, or methods?
No doubt. I’ve always heard the top shelf on a cooker runs hotter, but oddly my Yoder is an exception. The top shelf runs about 10° cooler. I undercooked ribs 2-3 times before I figured out I might want to put a thermometer up there to find out! Enjoy, looking forward to what you make with it.
 
Nice looking product! Looks vey well put together and installed very cleanly! Time to get them dirty!
 
I’ve wanted a set of these for so long but haven't convinced myself to pull the trigger yet. I just talk myself out every time I go to look at it because of drilling the holes in my grill haha. Just makes me nervous that I’ll make a stupid mistake and drill the hole wrong
 
I’ve wanted a set of these for so long but haven't convinced myself to pull the trigger yet. I just talk myself out every time I go to look at it because of drilling the holes in my grill haha. Just makes me nervous that I’ll make a stupid mistake and drill the hole wrong
Take your time, measure and re-measure. If you drill in the wrong place, go to the hardware store, get a flat head carriage bolt, a nut, put the bolt in the hole, screw on the nut and viola ! The hole is plugged 😊

https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N280-859-Carriage-plated/dp/B002KFZUJE

If the bolt interferes with the rail, there are always bigger hole plugs, or high temp silicone sealant that you can cover (small) holes with.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-313...ords=high+temp+silicone&qid=1708092651&sr=8-5
 
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I’ve wanted a set of these for so long but haven't convinced myself to pull the trigger yet. I just talk myself out every time I go to look at it because of drilling the holes in my grill haha. Just makes me nervous that I’ll make a stupid mistake and drill the hole wrong
I pondered my purchase for about 7 months. I just didn’t want to put that much money out and possibly screw up my grill.

I won’t lie to you. I’m not the most confident DIYer. But I did it. If you read my post about my installation, then you know the hardest part for me was getting the pilot holes started. That’s thick steel walls you’ve got to drill through. Trying to get the hole started in the center of my mark just wasn’t working. So I got a small, pointed punch tool and a hammer and whacked it in the center of my mark. That created just enough of a “dent” that the 1/16” titanium drill bit would stay in to start the pilot hole and keep it centered. From there, you’ve got to patiently, with moderate force, drill that pilot hole and then create the correct hole with the 5/16” titanium drill bit. My 18V Milwaukee battery drill may have gotten the job done but I didn’t feel like the power was there to get all 4 pilot holes and the correct size holes drilled. So I got the electric drill out. That helped. It’s still an effort to get the holes drilled. It provides some substance to the claim that these grills are well-made.

I mentioned in my original post that the right side bracket holes were not perfectly aligned. That’s because the first pilot hole I tried was with just the drill bit. It kept rotating off center…thus the pilot hole and subsequent 5/16” hole were off. But there’s just enough “slop” that my bolts went through and I was able to bolt the rack on fine. And there’s no apparent leveling issue between the left and right brackets that effect/affect (?) the grill shelves from sliding in/out easily.

After doing ribs & wings on Sunday, there is something to be aware of that I didn’t think of before buying it. That is, when you slide a shelf out to flip over your meat/food, or spritz it, there will be drippings. I had bought and installed the front shelf for my 700 when I bought it a few years ago. Glad I did because that’s where the drips go when you pull shelves out to get to your meat. So if you don’t have that front shelf, have some kind of mat, newspaper, or something to catch the drips. If your grill is on a concrete patio, like mine, you’ll be spray washing that periodically to clean off the grease. Or, your feet/shoes will get greasy. 🤭
 
FYI…I also bought the Grilla Grills Jerky Rack thinking I would need them for my Super Bowl cook. But my PCS racks arrived in time. So I never used the Jerky Rack. If anyone might be interested in it, let me know. I’ll sell it for what I paid and I’ll cover the shipping. If you’re in or near the South Carolina Lowcountry, I’ll bring it to you.

For the amount of times I’ve thought I needed extra grates/shelves for my 700, the Jerky Rack would have probably sufficed. These shelves slide in and out. You don’t have to use all of them. For a fold up base, I was pleased that the base unit has a slot that locks into place…adding stability.

https://www.grillagrills.com/product/4000025
 
Trying to get the hole started in the center of my mark just wasn’t working. So I got a small, pointed punch tool and a hammer and whacked it in the center of my mark.
For those who are unfamiliar with automatic center punches, here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/LABEAR-Cente...ring+loaded+center+punch,aps,162&sr=8-30&th=1

They are a very handy tool to have when you need to get a hole located properly. Just put the sharp tip on the location mark and press down; an internal spring and release mechanism trips at a certain pressure point and automatically makes a dimple. No hammer needed.
 
Going to order one today. I didn’t know about them. Aarrgh!

Disclaimer…I did acknowledge that I’m not a confident DIY’r. 🤣
 
Until you do and then you can't find it in your tool chest or garage. I have a number of "spare" tools that were acquired this way.
Actually, there are no “spare tools;” just prudent backups. :rolleyes: I am considered by my spouse to be an “expert” in this concept. 🤣
 
Anyone living in your neighborhood already has 2-3-4 of their own.... :rolleyes:
To my knowledge, I do not. But this is the one I own, and as a disclaimer I’m a former machinist so I mostly have less practical tools than most. The one @Jim6820 linked to is much more affordable, and practical, for occasional use.

Starrett Center Punch
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To my knowledge, I do not. But this is the one I own, and as a disclaimer I’m a former machinist so I mostly have less practical tools than most. The one @Jim6820 linked to is much more affordable, and practical, for occasional use.

Starred Center Punch
That’s actually the one I own as well, @Greg Jones, but I thought the one I posted a link to was more affordable while still being capable of doing the job in a DIY environment.
 

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