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yeah, no illusions here ... anything you stick in the grill is not going to last forever .... replacing the cast iron grates every 5 years for $50 is cheap money and no effort

Grill Grates are over rated. Yeah, I ran them for a few years. But, as someone who uses the grill daily, it is too laborious to keep them clean with that kind of use. When the little holes start getting plugged up, they actually start hindering the cooking. Instead, I got some cast iron...

Awesome .... congrats! Now, why didn't I think about posting a youtube video ... I should go back and do that :) added youtube link to my previous post!

The answer to this question is you have to use one or the other but not both. The "wife factor" would not allow me to substitute the tuya app for the recteq app ... she likes it. If she likes it, I dont have to be the one to cook all the time

So, awesome questions sdynak. I'll start with the last one first. >> Any reason you didn't go with the Gen3 mini? Not good reasons. truthfully, any Shelly 1 with dry contacts will work. The gen3 mini is even cheaper, so it is not about price. At the time of my purchase, I could get the...

Yeah, I bought a fingerbot too, and got it to work. This is viable solution, so awesome! There are a few things about this approach I do not like: Fingerbot is not weather proof. Here in Tennessee we get a lot of rain. Sometimes a driven rain. So this is about remote starting, we dont cover...

The smart life app is a quick solution. But I prefer my hardware approach with the Shelly. It preserves all the functionality of the existing app, because you continue to use the existing app. But, gives you remote start.

LOL - I should have tried that .... Well, it was fun with the shelly. One question though, is there any problem with the grill being paired with two applications? The smart life app and the recteq app at the same time?

Not a problem. I am glad people are making sure I am honest. In this case, regarding the wire, I used different wires because: there is no confusing cat6 twisted pair and power cable. So, prevents wiring mistakes single stranded cat6 wire is easy to solder on to circuit board pads than...

YUP, it is done and results posted

WRONG you did not read everything close enough. The cat6 twisted pair is only used as a non-powered trigger on the power switch, which is not connected to line voltage. The power switch is actually a low voltage trigger for a relay.

WRONG The shelly-1 is a dry contact relay. I am not using the relay to supply line power to the grill power switch. I am attaching the shelly dry contacts in parallel to the grill power switch which is a low voltage trigger for a line voltage relay on the control board link to shelly

I kind of belabored some of the steps. It is tough illustrating what to do when some in the forum may be electrical experts and others are first timers. If I was unclear on something, I am happy to illustrate further.

I forgot to take pictures of the last couple of steps I took a piece of double sided tape and taped the shelly relay to the inside side of the chassis. there is plenty of room to stick it out of the way. I left about 1/2" of room at the bottom of the chassis for reattaching the bottom panel so...

I took the twisted pair "flying leads" and inserted into the shelly 1 relay Green wire to "O" White wire to "I" I tightened the screws OK I forgot to mention that before I inserted the wires into the shelly 1 relay, I strippe them all back 1/4"... but I am hoping that was intuitive. I did a...

now I connected the two power "flying leads", black and white from the splice connectors, into the Shelly relay black into the "L" screw white into the "N" screw I made sure no bare wires were visible after inserting wires into the shelly. I tightened the screws down I made sure the wires were...

Now I spliced into the grill power for the shelly. (Do I have to say that the power cord should not be connected?) I cut the black and white wires I stripped back 1/2" of the black and white wires I took the black and white wires I stole from the extension cord and stripped them back 1/2" too...

I like to provide strain relief for solder joints ... so I just wrapped the twisted pair around the circuit board standoff so that nothing pulls on the solder joint

This is step is the hardest, because it takes a steady hand. The circuit board has lots of open space so there is room for slop. I fired up the soldering iron when it was hot, I put some solder on it and then wiped the solder off on the damp sponge to clean off impurities I tinned the wires...

I poked the controller board back through its opening so that the chassis is supporting the board like a jig. Makes it easier to solder