Thumb screws for augur cover

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fuzzball

New member
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4
Grill(s) owned
  1. Backyard Beast 1000
Hello! I recently had my first cook after my initial burn in. It didn’t light. Turns out the augur was not turning. Ultimately removed the metal “window” cover that is inside the grill that exposed the mid section of the augur. Sure enough right there was a sawdust ball that had gummed things up.

Here’s the thing. I had my grill covered. When I did my burn in it was a hot sunny day. All the pellets before/after this sawdust ball were fine. It was only where this metal window opening was that had the sawdust ball. I can’t figure out how moisture got in that one spot to cause that issue. If anyone has insight on that I’d welcome the input.

Now my question: I can see needing to open this window once in a while and don’t want to have a Phillips always handy by the grill. So was thinking of replacing those Phillips screws with thumb screws. Anyone else try that?
 
What's a sawdust ball?
 
What's a sawdust ball?
I don’t know what to call it. Basically if moisture breaks down some pellets, they will turn back into sawdust and then as the moisture dries out they harden. It’s as if you have a small chunk of wood in your augur and it will not turn.
 
You are wondering about a sawdust ball? I’m still wondering why/how the auger is not turning and what then metal window covering is?
I don’t know what to call the “window”. In the backyard beast for remove your grates, then remove the big drip pan you see the long metal housing that surrounds the augur. At about the midway point of that housing is a removable (4 Phillips screws) plate that lets you see inside that housing and you can see the augur and any pellets that are in there. When I removed that, is when I found, and could break up/remove the “sawdust ball” (for lack of better description) and thus unblock my augur so that it would start turning again.
 
I don’t know what to call the “window”. In the backyard beast for remove your grates, then remove the big drip pan you see the long metal housing that surrounds the augur. At about the midway point of that housing is a removable (4 Phillips screws) plate that lets you see inside that housing and you can see the augur and any pellets that are in there. When I removed that, is when I found, and could break up/remove the “sawdust ball” (for lack of better description) and thus unblock my augur so that it would start turning again.
That’s apparently a new feature on recteqs. My Bullseye, RT-340, nor my RT-700 have that functionality.
 
Can you post a picture of the auger tube window. I think it would be interesting for all of us (new owners with that set up and those of us with older models that don’t have it) to see. Maybe then we can help with some recommendations.

This is one of the downsides to all of the model changes. It makes it more difficult to help new owners.
 
I don’t know what to call it. Basically if moisture breaks down some pellets, they will turn back into sawdust and then as the moisture dries out they harden. It’s as if you have a small chunk of wood in your augur and it will not turn.
Thank you
 
It helps to soak pellets first to soften them 🤨
 
Can you post a picture of the auger tube window. I think it would be interesting for all of us (new owners with that set up and those of us with older models that don’t have it) to see. Maybe then we can help with some recommendations.

This is one of the downsides to all of the model changes. It makes it more difficult to help new owners.
I searched recteq on this, and I didn’t even see a link where you can download the manuals anymore. Perhaps I missed it?
 
I searched recteq on this, and I didn’t even see a link where you can download the manuals anymore. Perhaps I missed it?

On the support page

IMG_0976.jpeg
 
I perceive another potential "upgrade" to my RT-700...the auger hatch with the soon to follow pellet dump hatch :)
 
I perceive another potential "upgrade" to my RT-700...the auger hatch with the soon to follow pellet dump hatch :)
If you figure out a workable pellet dump hatch that can be added without major surgery, you will be very popular with the RT folks. My new MAK has one and it is absolutely amazing; one thumbscrew to loosen and you can dump the entire hopper. Something like that on the RT units would be MAJOR. Good luck with that project.
 
@fuzzball That's a great idea! I too had this problem, but my issue was leaving it uncoverd with pellets and it was quite gummed up. Thank god for the access cover.
heres a picture
auger gummed up.jpg
 
If you figure out a workable pellet dump hatch that can be added without major surgery, you will be very popular with the RT folks. My new MAK has one and it is absolutely amazing; one thumbscrew to loosen and you can dump the entire hopper. Something like that on the RT units would be MAJOR. Good luck with that project.
I have a hopper dump on my Pit Boss....very handy and useful
 
@fuzzball That's a great idea! I too had this problem, but my issue was leaving it uncoverd with pellets and it was quite gummed up. Thank god for the access cover.
heres a pictureView attachment 22607
Thanks for posting a picture! I just got back to this thread (busy packing/moving). I’m thinking of taking one of the screws and going to Ace hardware and ask for help to find thumb screws that match the same size/thread. I just did a quick burn tonight (plan to cook tomorrow and it has sat for almost two weeks) and I didn’t have the issue again. I consider it a fluke, but I’d like to be prepared to make the fix easier if I I have to do that again.
 

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