the results were virtually exactly the same so I have left the Savanah probe in...How much better was the more expensive Savanah probe versus the Bitt Boss probe?
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the results were virtually exactly the same so I have left the Savanah probe in...How much better was the more expensive Savanah probe versus the Bitt Boss probe?
The diffuser plate in the 680 can't be moved over,,, it has cut outs that provide for the auger...I assume that the load of pan/briquets/steel plate does not interfere with the placement of the drip pan (the space between is limited)? Bit more of a chore when cleaning? Warm up time extended?
I like the results with the shortened RTD but wonder if you could have achieved the result with the temp diversity, by just moving the diffuser a bit off center to deflect the heat more to the weak side? We old Traeger owners did that with great success. As I recall, I had a 15*-20* difference on left and right sides of the grates and moving the diffuser about 1/2 inch did the trick.
However, it appears that you have resolved the problems very well to your desires. Congratulations.
PS. I have decided not to replace the RTD on the 380. I use it for hot/sear/medium temp short(chicken) cooks and use my 590 for the Low/Slow. The Offset changes I made earlier seem to have been satisfactory for the 380.
no worries,,, if we can all contribute and learn from each other it just makes things that much better for everyone,,, if what I am doing here with my 680 helps out someone even if they don't have the same grill,,, it's all worth it...
So it looks like you've settled on the ceramic briquettes directly on top of diffuser now with the steel plate resting on the lips of the diffuser right above the briquettes, correct?Here is the final outcome of the diverter mod,,, I may still box in the sides and attach the steel plate so it comes out as a unit,,, but it's easy enough to lift out without removing the ceramics as it is now,,, with this the temperatures across the grill surface are within 5° side to side,,, and I no longer have to adjust the temperature offset for the RTD... I call this experiment complete and finished...
Pretty sure they're labeled as Pt1000 probes. Not sure what other metal is used for a 1000 ohm RTD.I don't think there is a delay built into the controller because after I swapped out the RTD the temp during preheat would climb degree to degree with my thermoworks probe... the most accurate RTD probes are made out of platinum,,, I don't think the RecTec probes are,,, I haven't cut one open to have a look,,, but they definitely don't act like the platinum probes I have dealt with in the past...
Sounds like you're right in theory.Here's one I wonder about: 4 pt1000 RTDs connected in series-parallel (i.e. two pairs of parallel RTDs, with those pairs connected in series). Wouldn't that return an average of the four (i.e. each paralleled pair would return half its impedance, and then those two halves would be added together for a whole), and make it so you can read the overall average temperature taken from four corners of the barrel?
IMHO it's about the cost to manufacture the RT-B380.My neighbor and I were taking about that the other day. Why is it only on one side. And 6” off the grill.
He showed me so pictures of companies the have shorter RTDs or have turned them sideways to be closer to the grates.
BUT all that side, I’m am sure the engineers at RT have thought the same things.
My only concern would be that you could have sensor #1 and #2 reading really high and and sensor #3 and #4 reading really low but the average being okay. Hope that makes sense??Just ordered 4 pt1000 rtds off aliexpress, will let y'all know what comes of the test. The idea is to wire up 2 pairs each in parallel, and then wires those parallel pairs in series to each other. At 0C, in theory, 2 1KΩ RTDs in parallel would return 500Ω resistance. Put two pair of those pairs in series, and you end with a resistance of 1KΩ. Now vary the temp each of the 4 RTDs is exposed to and you will vary the resistance of each one (R1, R2, R3, and R4) Hooked up in parallel-series like this (again, in theory), the total resistance should come out as (1/((1/R1)+(1/R2))) + (1/((1/R3)+(1/R4))), which is basically the average resistance of all 4. Just fiddling around with pt1000 resistance tables and throwing in four random temps +/- 5-10 degrees off from each other, it theoretically returns an average resistance across the whole circuit. It's this average that the controller should see and *should* then display an average temp of the barrel based on wherever the 4 measurements are taken. We'll see.
Absolutely does. You wonder if that would be the condition inside the barrel? I'm pretty new to rec teq, so where would you think the four best places would be? My thoughts were the four corners, but i guess I could just sort of sample around the space and see.My only concern would be that you could have sensor #1 and #2 reading really high and and sensor #3 and #4 reading really low but the average being okay. Hope that makes sense??
To be honest I don't think it will make a difference.Absolutely does. You wonder if that would be the condition inside the barrel? I'm pretty new to rec teq, so where would you think the four best places would be? My thoughts were the four corners, but i guess I could just sort of sample around the space and see.
Absolutely agree, I have been looking for a thermometer for the Bullseye lid. I haven't found anything I like with a short probe length.I know most of you don't agree with me but I still think if there was an old fashion thermometer mounted in the hood would be able to give you another tool to know what is going on. It would at least give you a quick indication if you have a grease fire going on.