How to apply lava lock

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KamadoGuy

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My lava lock arrives tomorrow. I'm going to apply it to the inside of the lid of my backyard beast 1200.

Initially, I was thinking I was going to cut strips, so I would have four individual strips for the horizontal and vertical parts of the lid

Earlier today I was watching a video and the applied the lava lock in one continuous peace on his lid. But something did not look right when he had to make a ninety degree turn, because it looked kind of lumpy in the corner.The lava lock tape that is.

Is there a recommended way to install it meaning 4 individual pieces versus one continuous piece?

Edit: i did some photos since I'm doing my first Cook. The gasket is holding up really well although on the bottom and sides of the lid, but a little bit of heat is escaping through the top. Apparently, I didn't do a good enough job :)

but i'm not complaining, because without the gasket, the stainless steel would look a lot worse.

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I used a razor knife and just did butt joints (not miter).

Run one long to end. Cut. Then perpendicular and butt to first.

Don’t apply too much tension as you apply. I installed mine in a “relaxed” manner if that makes sense.

I’ve a RT1250. I did the lid, inside the hopper lid, and added some squares on the lid full open bumpers to protect the lid finish.
 
My lava lock arrives tomorrow. I'm going to apply it to the inside of the lid of my backyard beast 1200.

Initially, I was thinking I was going to cut strips, so I would have four individual strips for the horizontal and vertical parts of the lid

Earlier today I was watching a video and the applied the lava lock in one continuous peace on his lid. But something did not look right when he had to make a ninety degree turn, because it looked kind of lumpy in the corner.The lava lock tape that is.

Is there a recommended way to install it meaning 4 individual pieces versus one continuous piece?
I’ve used this on multiple cookers, and I’ve always done 4 pieces with a 45 degree miter on each piece. The pieces have enough stretch/compress that the cuts don’t have to be 100% perfect to length. It’s forgiving stuff, but try to nail the 45 degree angle part. Older picture from 6 years ago of a hopper lid, but you get the idea what it can look like.

IMG_1298.webp
 
I used a razor knife and just did butt joints (not miter).

Run one long to end. Cut. Then perpendicular and butt to first.

Don’t apply too much tension as you apply. I installed mine in a “relaxed” manner if that makes sense.

I’ve a RT1250. I did the lid, inside the hopper lid, and added some squares on the lid full open bumpers to protect the lid finish.
That’s how I did mine as well. @Greg Jones does nice work and the mitered corners are classy, but they really aren’t necessary. This is not fine cabinet work and the LavaLock will be hidden from view except when the lid is open. A clean butt joint will look fine IMO.
 
That’s how I did mine as well. @Greg Jones does nice work and the mitered corners are classy, but they really aren’t necessary. This is not fine cabinet work and the LavaLock will be hidden from view except when the lid is open. A clean butt joint will look fine IMO.
What can I say, I’m a woodworker? Butt joints in woodworking are the signature of a less than inspired craftsperson.
 
I’ve used this on multiple cookers, and I’ve always done 4 pieces with a 45 degree miter on each piece. The pieces have enough stretch/compress that the cuts don’t have to be 100% perfect to length. It’s forgiving stuff, but try to nail the 45 degree angle part. Older picture from 6 years ago of a hopper lid, but you get the idea what it can look like.

View attachment 24120
Thanks for posting the pic. Yes, those mitre corners certainly do look classy. I don't know if i'm going to do that or the butt joint, but i've got a day to think about it.
 
Thanks for posting the pic. Yes, those mitre corners certainly do look classy. I don't know if i'm going to do that or the butt joint, but i've got a day to think about it.
Butt joint will be fine-don’t’ sweat the small stuff, it’s all small stuff.
 
Thanks for posting the pic. Yes, those mitre corners certainly do look classy. I don't know if i'm going to do that or the butt joint, but i've got a day to think about it.
Either way, the lavalock should help you. I'm still happy with mine after five years. Just be sure to give the surface a good cleaning and make sure it is dry.
 
I guess i'm lucky because I have not done the burn in yet. I was waiting for the lava lock before I fired it up :)

Although my first cook will be this weekend
That will make it a bit easier for you. Just look out for any dust or other stuff that might need to be wiped off. Once the product adheres, you are to go for a long time.
 
I strongly suggest wiping down all surfaces where LavaLock will be applied with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol; even if the grill has not yet been used. There can still be residual oils from the manufacturing process present. And, don’t use the more common 70% Isopropyl alcohol as it will not do as good a job. You can usually find the 99% version at hardware stores, some pharmacies, etc.
 
I wouldn't install that gasket. I would instead search for the Vision grill replacement gasket on Amazon. It is much thicker and will last for many years. I went the route of the thinner gasket first myself. The one I'm recommending will last for many more years. Cut your losses and install the better gasket.
Too late :) i installed it already.

It's doing a good job because I don't see any smoke escaping through the hood, it's all coming exiting the back of the the barrel.

Was 18 bucks on amazon, and I expect it to last at least five years based on user feedback here, but I expect it to last even longer than that.
 
Like I said, I've already been down this route. Once the grease fills that thin front gasket, please remember my advice and acknowledge my efforts to help you, rather than trying to discredit my guidance.
I’ve had a very different experience than you; three years in and my LavaLock is still working well. Now, just because some of us have had a different experience than you, it doesn’t mean we are trying to “discredit” you. Instead, we’d like to learn why your experience was different.

Can you tell us which model Recteq you installed it on, and some of the specifics of your install like which brand of LL you used, whether installed on the lid or barrel side, etc. Having that info might help us all learn something useful.
 
I'm five years out using LavaLock on my RT-540. All in all the gasket is working well. Being a bit lazy I did the butt joints as I didn't think the gasket required high precision.

Over time I get a little smoke around the end near the hopper which I was not surprised about. The door and drum have gone through untold number of high temperature cycles and I would be really surprised if there was not some change in the dimensions. Stress relieving bent metal is more of an art than science and the manufacturer maybe kept things a bit loose to accommodate shifts.

This is not a Holman/Moody blue printed engine that needed precise machining and balancing to operate over a large range of heats and stress. (Ok archaic reference you can look up if needed).

TD
 
Ok archaic reference you can look up if needed
Hey, watch it! Holman Moody archaic? Heck, I remember Fred Lorenzen, David Pearson, Fireball Roberts, Bobby Allison and Junior Johnson—not to mention Mario Andretti and A.J. Foyt—like it was yesterday. :ROFLMAO:
 

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