Hey folks, I just had gone through my first winter with my Bullseye covered up and was surprised to find the auger had stuck when I went to use it a few months later.
I mistakenly figured that I didn't need to remove the pellets since the grill was covered but apparently the pellets need to be removed for the dampness of a PNW winter.
At any rate, I read up and watch a few RecTec YouTube videos on using a couple of claw hammers to pry the motor up to remove the auger.
It didn't take me long to realize that if I were to put any sort of force on the claw hammers, I would ruin the auger. I could just picture those swelled up pellets in there all glossy-like and acting like ceramic. That auger wasn't going anywhere.
I recently had some good luck using aluminum sulfate to remove a broken tap from an aluminum part, so I figured I'd apply the 'science' approach to attempt to remove the auger.
I needed something that will dissolve the wood fibers but not damage the steel. Long story short, I did a little research on the internet and found that Potassium Hydroxide should do the trick, so I purchased a 2lb container on Amazon for about $20. Note: Potassium Hydroxide is used in the paper mill industry to dissolve cellulose/wood fibers. It's also used in food prep, but I'm not sure what for.
The plan for auger removal is to pour the potassium hydroxide into each end of the auger to let it work its magic to soften up the pellets.
Grill Prep:
1. Follow the RecTec instructions to remove the shroud and auger motor {you've probably already done this if you're trying to remove a stuck auger).
2. Cover the electronics and blower motor with plastic to keep it from getting wet.
3. Remove any existing pellets from the hopper.
4. Vacuum any remaining loose pellets from the hopper and fire box.
Potassium Hydroxide Prep:
1. Follow the warnings on the potash label (use gloves and goggles)
2. Boil about 1 quart of water in a glass Pyrex bowl.
3. Slowly pour a small portion of the Potassium Hydroxide into the water (CAUTION: pour in small amounts because it will react and cause the water to violently boil)
4. You'll notice the potash will dissolve completely in the hot water.
5. Keep slowly adding more potash until the boiled water is super saturated (I used about 1/2 of the container in the quart of water - or about 1lb).
Applying the Solution:
1. Tip the grill up so the auger on the fire box side is near vertical
2. Pour some potash solution into the auger tube. Caution: do not pour the solution into the ignitor or thermistor tubes.
3. As the solution soaks in and drops down, keep refilling it (use about 1/4 quart, and save the remaining 1/4 quart for the other end of the auger)
4. After the solution has settled, flip the grill over with the opposite side of the auger is near vertical.
5. Pour the solution into the hopper so it goes down into the auger.
6. As the solution level drops, keep topping it off until you use up all the solution.
7. Let sit for an hour or so.
Auger Removal:
I was able to use a pair of channel lock pliers on the motor end of the auger and get it to rotate (before this was impossible even attempting to pry the motor with the claw hammers). I 'unscrewed' the auger until it came completely out and then screwed it in a about an inch or so, and then pulled up on the auger and broke the 'engaged' softened pellets and pulled the auger completely out. Then I dumped the debris, screwed the auger back in another inch, pulled, lather, rinse, and repeated until I was able to remove all the softened pellets. I then used a garden hose, some cloth packing and a stick to clean any of the remaining pellet debris and solution. After cleaning off the auger, I reassembled the grill.
This process worked well for me and I was able to remove the auger without it stretching. Hopefully, the process will work for you.
I mistakenly figured that I didn't need to remove the pellets since the grill was covered but apparently the pellets need to be removed for the dampness of a PNW winter.
At any rate, I read up and watch a few RecTec YouTube videos on using a couple of claw hammers to pry the motor up to remove the auger.
It didn't take me long to realize that if I were to put any sort of force on the claw hammers, I would ruin the auger. I could just picture those swelled up pellets in there all glossy-like and acting like ceramic. That auger wasn't going anywhere.
I recently had some good luck using aluminum sulfate to remove a broken tap from an aluminum part, so I figured I'd apply the 'science' approach to attempt to remove the auger.
I needed something that will dissolve the wood fibers but not damage the steel. Long story short, I did a little research on the internet and found that Potassium Hydroxide should do the trick, so I purchased a 2lb container on Amazon for about $20. Note: Potassium Hydroxide is used in the paper mill industry to dissolve cellulose/wood fibers. It's also used in food prep, but I'm not sure what for.
The plan for auger removal is to pour the potassium hydroxide into each end of the auger to let it work its magic to soften up the pellets.
Grill Prep:
1. Follow the RecTec instructions to remove the shroud and auger motor {you've probably already done this if you're trying to remove a stuck auger).
2. Cover the electronics and blower motor with plastic to keep it from getting wet.
3. Remove any existing pellets from the hopper.
4. Vacuum any remaining loose pellets from the hopper and fire box.
Potassium Hydroxide Prep:
1. Follow the warnings on the potash label (use gloves and goggles)
2. Boil about 1 quart of water in a glass Pyrex bowl.
3. Slowly pour a small portion of the Potassium Hydroxide into the water (CAUTION: pour in small amounts because it will react and cause the water to violently boil)
4. You'll notice the potash will dissolve completely in the hot water.
5. Keep slowly adding more potash until the boiled water is super saturated (I used about 1/2 of the container in the quart of water - or about 1lb).
Applying the Solution:
1. Tip the grill up so the auger on the fire box side is near vertical
2. Pour some potash solution into the auger tube. Caution: do not pour the solution into the ignitor or thermistor tubes.
3. As the solution soaks in and drops down, keep refilling it (use about 1/4 quart, and save the remaining 1/4 quart for the other end of the auger)
4. After the solution has settled, flip the grill over with the opposite side of the auger is near vertical.
5. Pour the solution into the hopper so it goes down into the auger.
6. As the solution level drops, keep topping it off until you use up all the solution.
7. Let sit for an hour or so.
Auger Removal:
I was able to use a pair of channel lock pliers on the motor end of the auger and get it to rotate (before this was impossible even attempting to pry the motor with the claw hammers). I 'unscrewed' the auger until it came completely out and then screwed it in a about an inch or so, and then pulled up on the auger and broke the 'engaged' softened pellets and pulled the auger completely out. Then I dumped the debris, screwed the auger back in another inch, pulled, lather, rinse, and repeated until I was able to remove all the softened pellets. I then used a garden hose, some cloth packing and a stick to clean any of the remaining pellet debris and solution. After cleaning off the auger, I reassembled the grill.
This process worked well for me and I was able to remove the auger without it stretching. Hopefully, the process will work for you.
