Bull Flaking Paint and Rust on RT-700

[Clm65]

I just got a competition cart for my Bull, and last night I took off the front folding shelf as I prepared to transfer the smoker from the stock legs to the cart. When I removed the shelf, I found quite a bit of bubbling and flaking paint on the front that was previously blocked from my view. Also a fair amount of surface rust. There is also paint flaking off the bottom edge of the front section, as well as inside the right side at the bottom. I contacted RT and they have offered to send me some primer and a couple bottles of touch up paint or a rattle can of high temp paint. I'm curious what the masses would do to fix this. I know many of you will say it is just a grill and this is cosmetic only and it will still work fine, but I would rather keep it looking reasonably good. I'm am thinking of sandblasting 100% of the paint off this section of the smoker and painting it with a quality high temp paint, or seeing if I can find someone local to powdercoat it. Any recommendations? Oh, and the smoker is not even 1 year old.

 

[Simarti28]

I was going to recommend sandblasting and powder coat. Sounds like you’re on the right track. Might consider doing the lid and comp cart while you’re at it, just a thought.

 

[Gonefishin]

Last summer I had the powder coated lid on my 340 bubble and start to rust around the edges, about an inch wide band. Sanded off ALL the paint on both sides of the lid, which came off surprisingly easy with 80 git on the DA, primed and painted with high heat Rustoleum. Needs it again already.

My opinion would be strip it and powder coat if you have someone that does such.

At the moment, I'm blaming the 500 degree pizza cooks with a welding blanket over it, time will tell.

 

[Clm65]

I removed the barrel and hopper from the rest of the grill. The painted surface that the barrel sits on also is in pretty bad shape. I have a friend that can sandblast it for me. I just need to find a powdercoater. If powdercoating is stupidly expensive, I will look at high temp paint. I've never had much success with the Rustoleum. Has anyone got any experience with POR-15 or Rutland high temp paints? For now I will just do the frame, but depending on how it turns out, I may do the door and cart if/when needed.

 

[Pacman]

FWIW, I was never a huge fan of POR-15, but I was very happy with the various rust neutralizing and rust encapsulating products from Eastwood. They're geared towards car restoration folks, but have a variety of products including high temp stuff, that would likely be very suitable for "grill restoration."

I used their Rust Encapsulator product line when I restored an old car (that I wish I never sold). The car started life in 1971 in wet Oregon and it showed. Highly recommended.

 

[Simarti28]

Just some reference points for you…The powder coat shop I used last year charged me $100 per wheel for my classic car, that included sandblasting. He said he’d do the lid on my RT-340 for $40. Sold the 340 so never had it done. He said the coating would resist up to 2000F.

 

[Clm65]

FWIW, I was never a huge fan of POR-15, but I was very happy with the various rust neutralizing and rust encapsulating products from Eastwood. They're geared towards car restoration folks, but have a variety of products including high temp stuff, that would likely be very suitable for "grill restoration."

I used their Rust Encapsulator product line when I restored an old car (that I wish I never sold). The car started life in 1971 in wet Oregon and it showed. Highly recommended.

A guy at work also suggested looking at Eastwood. I will definitely check them out! Thanks!

 

[jac365]

I restored an old Kitchen Aid Mixer and a 1940's meat slicer. I had the stand mixer base and most steel/cast parts of the slicer powder coated.

In my case the people doing the powder coat waited until they had other parts from other customers they were coating the same color... Mixer base=white slicer parts=red and added my stuff to the process. This saved me and the other customers $$ by doing more at once. Doing the coating in batches by color saves on labor/prep time.

 

[Clm65]

Just some reference points for you…The powder coat shop I used last year charged me $100 per wheel for my classic car, that included sandblasting. He said he’d do the lid on my RT-340 for $40. Sold the 340 so never had it done. He said the coating would resist up to 2000F.

That sounds very reasonable. If I can get this done for under $100, I'll be happy.

 

[Clm65]

I restored an old Kitchen Aid Mixer and a 1940's meat slicer. I had the stand mixer base and most steel/cast parts of the slicer powder coated.

In my case the people doing the powder coat waited until they had other parts from other customers they were coating the same color... Mixer base=white slicer parts=red and added my stuff to the process. This saved me and the other customers $$ by doing more at once. Doing the coating in batches by color saves on labor/prep time.

That definitely makes sense. But I'm not too patient, and time waiting for enough parts to reduce the cost is also time that I can't use the smoker, so I'm willing to pay to have it done quickly.

 

[sdynak]

I also have to give a side to powder coating.

I can't believe this is only a year old. Good luck with your decision and finishing.

 

[chadinsc]

before spending a $100 for a pro job maybe just ask recteq if you can buy that part. they may send it out free. if not i would just strip it or sand blast it and paint with hi heat paint. i used the recteq touch up paint on my grill and its a pretty good match. i just did small scratches though

 

[rpc]

This should not occur on a one year old product (why they do not warrant paint)

Also why the new stainless 1070 model is needed in lineup

 

[Thor8594]

Powder coating is best way to go for that especially due to your location.

 

[Gonefishin]

I've used POR-15, but not the high heat. I was very happy with the POR-15 on my campers frame, resisted chipping much better then Rustoleum, but that really doesn't help in this case.

I didn't know there was a POR-15 high heat till now, might try it on my lid once the weather warms up.

 

[Clm65]

before spending a $100 for a pro job maybe just ask recteq if you can buy that part. they may send it out free. if not i would just strip it or sand blast it and paint with hi heat paint. i used the recteq touch up paint on my grill and its a pretty good match. i just did small scratches though

I've asked that twice now, but it was mixed with a group of other questions and they never directly answered. But given that they didn't seem to want me to disassemble the grill, I don't get the impression they will sell or give me this part. But I have asked again, so we will see what they say.

 

[Clm65]

This should not occur on a one year old product (why they do not warrant paint)

Also why the new stainless 1070 model is needed in lineup

Fully agree on both points

 

[Clm65]

Powder coating is best way to go for that especially due to your location.

I think so too. I live on the west coast of Florida on a brackish canal, and things don't seem to last long here.

 

[Clm65]

I've used POR-15, but not the high heat. I was very happy with the POR-15 on my campers frame, resisted chipping much better then Rustoleum, but that really doesn't help in this case.

I didn't know there was a POR-15 high heat till now, might try it on my lid once the weather warms up.

I also used the regular POR-15 on parts of my truck. I saw the high heat version on Amazon and I'm tempted to try it, but my preference is powdercoat. I got my first quote back for $100, as long as I sandblast it. I'll try to get another quote or two, but $100 was the limit I already set in my head, so I'm continuing down the powdercoating path.

 

[IPlayWithMeat]

I just got a competition cart for my Bull, and last night I took off the front folding shelf as I prepared to transfer the smoker from the stock legs to the cart. When I removed the shelf, I found quite a bit of bubbling and flaking paint on the front that was previously blocked from my view. Also a fair amount of surface rust. There is also paint flaking off the bottom edge of the front section, as well as inside the right side at the bottom. I contacted RT and they have offered to send me some primer and a couple bottles of touch up paint or a rattle can of high temp paint.

I’m not sure if Recteq has sent you anything yet, but here’s what they sent me to fix my powder coat after my hopper fire. The paintbrush is roughly the size of a fat toothpick .