Recent content by ol' stonebreaker

If you live in a humid environment and don't use it for 4 months I suggest whats already been said to remove the safety grate, vacuum out all the pellets, then run the auger in test mode, then vacuum all the pellets out of the firepot. IMO all a cover does is trap moisture under it and hold it...

Why would you want to make a mess near impossible to clean up? the drip pan also spreads the heat as evenly as possible. Line the barrel with foil to catch the mess.

Just relating my experience with over long pellets.

If you buy pellets that have longer pellets mixed in that's the cause of the bridging in the hopper.

Maybe a little lube in the swivel will help.

I clamped down my 340 shield down and welded an "X" of small flat bar( 5/16"x 5/8") to the top. Problem fixed.

My opinion is to remove the saftey grate. It's nothing but a CYA for RT in case some fool or a kid gets gets their finger in the auger. Tho as slow as it turns I don't see how that's possible. I think it would take a lot of stupid to do it.

Might want to check auger feed rate too.

It can vary depending on brand and type of pellets since make more ash than others. When the firepot ash builds up deep enough then igniting pellets becomes a problem.

I vac out the firepot and change the foil when the hopper is almost empty.

Throw the dark meat my way!! I just bought turkey legs and thighs for $5.14/ lb.

I think the OP just made a simple job into a difficult and expensive one. A little work with an awl and air it would have made it easier.

Sorry, on looking closer I can see the casters. I built extended handles on the opposite end for my 340 so it's easier to move around on the casters.

Just one of experience's hard lessons you won't forget. BTW where's your casters??

The minimum feed may need adjustment.